Leather and suede are very upscale and graceful fabrics with a variety of weights, styles and colors. The variety of clothing, a coat, but also underwear. Jacket coat, coat, jacket, skirt, leather pants, underwear and vest, shirt, shorts and so on. Up and down matching, but also with other clothing matching. Characteristics of leather and suede fabric True leather is treated animal skin and nitrate, and its clothing materials stress, Zhang large, thin, no serious damage to the quality of animal skin to create clothing. Animal skin resources are not as easy to get as cotton, hemp, wool and chemical fiber raw materials, and the quantity is small, the selection rate is low, and the technical requirements are high, so it is more precious. Leather used to make clothing is a variety of soft leather, it is a natural multi-layer interlaced reticular fibrous tissue. At the same time it is more crisp, this soft and crisp unification, is the unique performance of leather garments. Another characteristic of leather garments is durable, because the leather fiber is a three-dimensional structure, so it has folding, wear resistance, pressure performance, its service life is generally longer than any textile fiber clothing. Suede is also a kind of leather, which is a suede fabric made of chemical fiber material by rubbing to create suede, much like a real suede. In order to get the best garments, garments sewn with this type of fabric require simple lines to reflect the high-class and beautiful feel of the fabric. Whether it is real leather, real suede or artificial leather and suede, its texture is relatively tight and hard, so in the choice of clothing styles should be more lenient. Leather sewing requirements Because the leather is very easy to crepe, leather storage before sewing it should be rolled into a tube, check the irregularity in the discharge before the leather and whether there is a hole in the existence of suede Suede side of the discharge. Smooth leather and heavy calf leather is not suede and slash-shaped, so the general use of positive discharge. In order to have a good stability of clothing, clothing is going to press the leather straight to the nesting, accessories are free to nest. Bond or press the paper to the leather with a piece of adhesive paper or heavy stock, or scratch the paper with a piece of paper and scratch it on the opposite side of the leather. Cut it with layers of sharp cutters or single-sided blades. Because stitching gives leather permanent holes, be extra careful when sewing. If you want to sew the clothing style is not familiar with, should first use a thin fabric clothing style try one. Seams for clothing are key to leather, starting with the sewing machine and adjusting it properly. Sewing needle number should be based on the weight of the leather to choose from, sewing stitches generally 3 to 4 cm per cm; at the same time should check the pressure on the presser foot, the pressure should be less than the average sewing fabric; sewing should be slowly sewn , Do not tighten the leather, can not be used back and forth to prevent the leather from tearing; sewing must be done after the knot. Stitching can be used when sewing cloth or back stitches the seam layer, overlapping joints can be rubber together to glue them together. Some seams should be reinforced with roller and diagonal strips to prevent lengthening of the leather. In order to eliminate the bloated joints, the blade can be used to single-sided leather oblique seam head. In order to smooth the seam available flat seam and rubber, knocked flat with a hammer, separate. This seams will be smooth and the appearance of clothing will not leave marks. Leather seams there are three main ways: â‘ flat seams: trim the film or under the seam of the first, and then use the suture approach suture, and then with a rubber adhesive, the edge of the pruning edge 0.3cm flat Then follow a distance of 0.6cm and then sew a line; Stacked seams: at a distance of 0.3cm from the trimming edge stitching a flat seam; The embedded strip seams: cut neat pieces of both sides of the seam part, according to The length of the seam and then cut a leather, the width of the sewing width twice plus 1.3cm. Then put the leather strip between the two sewing heads and add the rubber, and finally suture on both sides. Note that rubber is more difficult to remove, so the seams can not be stuck on rubber. Leather garment parts approach Collars, pockets and welt seams to the first two layers of the sewing head trimmed from the leather side of the two trim the edges aligned with adhesive bonding them, and then 0.3cm from the edge into the flat seam. Finally, a slit seam 0.6cm away from the edge. Leather lock buttonhole is different, such as women's roller hole sewing. First according to the buttonhole mark to open a rectangular mouth, the width of about 1cm, cut two buttons per hole than the rectangular mouth length 1.3cm, width 3.8cm leather belt, the leather belt fold, trimming and flattening , Then place the two half-folded leather straps in the middle of the buttonhole and flatten around with a rubber compound. And then outside the flat seam suture along the rectangular mouth, buttonhole stitched and then cut off the stitches within the leather. Zipper approach and other fabrics similar to thick leather flat seam processing available, the following sewing method can also be used: before the seam in the leather inside the overlap layer according to the zipper marks cut a long 1.3cm Small mouth, and cut in the top 1.3cm, and then the zipper with adhesive tape, along the trimming edge stitching, and then another layer of leather overlap on the zipper, and align the seam line with an adhesive tape It sticks, starting from the edge of 0.6 ~ 1.3cm at the beginning of sewing, sewing should be from the top of the zipper to the bottom of the seam at the bottom of the zipper to fight back and forth, and finally flat-edged along the trim edge of a circle. Outside the zipper sewing is trimmed off both sides of the leather, the width of the zipper teeth can be exposed so far, and then placed under the trimmed zipper with tape stick, and then sewn it to the clothing up. Sewing of leather and suede This sewing is easy. The depth of the welt is generally 2.5 ~ 5.0cm, the first paste with the paste edge will be drawn, and then coated with rubber agent, and then fold the welt seam head, folding edge after ironing start sewing, sewing stitch length is generally 2 to 3 pins per cm, and finally ironed with a low-temperature dry iron, ironed cloth should be lined. Chemical fiber suede sewing requirements Chemical fiber suede and real suede have the same beautiful appearance, and light soft, anti-wrinkle, color fastness and mechanical washing excellent performance. Such fabrics can also be used conventional seam method or overlap seam method, can also be a combination of both. The vast majority of chemical fiber suede garments require the use of clips. Since the fabric can be steam-ironed, it is generally available with a bonded lining. The two layers of fabric are typically bonded together using a hot-melt web prior to sewing. As the chemical fiber suede is a kind of suede fabric, it has the hair and the hair of the points, so when cutting should pay attention to this, the use of suede side of the discharge. In order to save the fabric, welt and small pieces of clothing regardless of direction, this can save the fabric. Although the stitches left on the fabric will disappear as the stitching of the fabric disappears, it is best to use a pin to fasten the stitching head or to fix the stitching on the fabric with a tape. In order to make the dress neatly cut, use a sharp Cut the knife and draw with the powder. Sewing stitches per centimeter 4 to 5 needles, stitches generally use 9 or 11 fine needles, sewing thread to use silk or polyester thread, lock button hole available strands and 16 or 18 of the needle. As the fabric texture is hard, such as hand-stitching when the finger should be put on the needle hoop, the first sewing with adhesive tape or back to the needle will be fixed, but also in the sewing head off the seam within 3mm using false seam. In order to avoid tip wrinkles, the last four stitches at the overlap of the fabric can be stitched into very small conical points, then the province can be cut within 25 mm of the tip, and a piece of cloth under the edge of the garment Strips to eliminate the fabric front traces, the province's side can also be flat seam or adhesive fixed on the fabric. In order to prevent the wrinkles of the stitches, the fabric before and after the presser foot will be tightened during the sewing process. When the materials are fed, the temperature of the iron should be adjusted to the chemical fiber, and the ironing cloth should be lined on the back of the fabric Ironing. If you must iron the front of the fabric, should be lined with a chemical fiber suede. The seams in two ways: â‘ ordinary seams: re-use of the first wooden suture will be sewing head flatten, or put in the seam at the head of a width of 6mm wide hot melt mesh belt will be pressed down and stick the seam Shared. Seams available flat seam or double-sided seam. Ordinary seams commonly used in the sleeves, collar rolling collar, armhole, crotch and pants and other seams. â‘¡ Stacked seams: such as the swing seam and shoulder seam is the former film after the overlapping film, shoulder seam is to cover the shoulder overlap in the front and back films, these seams are usually flat seam. At the same time should be considered in the cutting method with this seam, this can save the materials used in clothing. Trim off the 15mm seam from the overlapping layers of fabric during manufacture. Scribe the seam line on the front of the fabric with a dough and press it for 2 to 3 seconds between the two layers of the fabric, sandwiching a 6mm-wide hot-melt tape, or sewing a dummy tape around the outer layer of the fabric, Be careful not to sew false seams. Then in the seam stitching 3mm at the level of seam, and then sew the overlap overlap. Chemical fiber suede clothing parts of the processing methods First, the lapel, the front placket, collarless collar and cuff stitching available general sewing method. With a lapel neckline, in order to get a better look, you can use ordinary flat seam, the first collar or welt trim pruning, and then arresting the front mouth. When the back of the garment after the flat seam in front of the line. With collar collar suture, all the sewing head can be cut off, neckline trimmed to be smaller than the neckline fabric 6mm, the neckline lining in the collar after the two layers of clothing on the reverse of each other, the suture in the Collar at 1.3mm sewn on a fixed stop after the collar and lining the collar of all the sewing head trimmed smooth, and then overlay collar overlay collar, collar will be inserted into the collar, and finally along the collar Above the side of the cessation of the only handle. The collar and the opening of the garment are stitched with flat seams, then inserted into the collar and stitched with flat seams. Second, when cutting the cuff affixed to the edge, the reverse side of the sleeve glued to the reverse, and then along the center line fork, close to the edge of the seizure line, suture to the opening, the stitches to be sharp, correct After the flat clothes. Sleeve Koff lining should be cut net slit, all the sewing head to be trimmed Qi, and then cut in half, cuff lining than the cuff more trim 6mm, and the reverse and the cuffs glued, Together on the edge of the cuffs, riding the seam will be the whole sleeve kraft suture. Third, the patch pocket sewing is first cut the seam head off 15mm, no lining of the pocket should be folded along the pocket to cut it open, and then use the flat seam to the opposite suture to the pocket up, and finally with a flat seam to install Go to the clothing. Lined pockets cut the flat seams from the edge of the liner and the pockets sewn onto the garment. The closure of the flap is to cut out the two layers of the flap first and trim off all the seams, then the opposite and the back are glued together, then the two sides and the bottom of the flap are sewn with flat seams. Finally, the flap is sewn to the garment. Fourth, the belt suture is to first trim off the waist belt head, the end of the liner at both ends, and then stitched to the back of the belt outside the belt, and the waist belt overlapping waist to the sewing head, and then along the side with flat seam suture, and then Turn the waistband back to the opposite side and flatlock it 6mm from the outside of the waistband and loop it around the waistband as needed. Its zipper sewing is basically similar to the leather. Fifth, chemical fiber suede buttonhole sewing method has the following three kinds: â‘ edge buttonhole in addition to using adhesive mesh instead of rubber, the rest of the methods are the same with the leather edge buttonhole. â‘¡ The general edge buttonhole is used to patch button hole sewing method, but do not need to use sewing in the sewing. The method is affixed in the middle of the button part of a rectangular piece of the original fabric, the front of the fabric facing the front, and then according to the length of the buttonhole stitching two tracks, and cut a pair of diagonal triangle. Then put the patch into the clothing, sewing buttonhole edge and the cloth affixed to the overlap in the plane. Finally, turn over the clothing, cross-sewn the top of the button. â‘¢ Available sewing machine lock buttonhole. Sixth, chemical fiber suede welt sewing methods also have the following three kinds: â‘ ordinary welt edge: first fold 38mm edge, and then it will be bonded to the clothing. â‘¡ with casual style welt trim edge trim trim, and then close to the edge of the flat seam, to prevent the fabric from stretching in the sewing. â‘¢ outside the welt is attached to the side of the first paste a 13mm wide strip of cloth, and then the opposite side of the welt opposite the flat seam suture. As some of the unique properties of leather raw materials, clothing in the sewing process, process requirements, equipment, etc. are also different from the general clothing. Such as the stitching of leather clothing is generally not hot to open, but with a special piece of glue to stick the seam and clothing pieces, and then knock with a hammer, which in the process known as "knock on the seam." General shirt on both sides of the side seam, loaded collar and so on are used to knock on the seam. Before and after the pieces of leather between the pieces of the seam between the seam, and sometimes often use the front of the line of arresting carried out. Which method of sewing, mainly depending on species style, process requirements and so on. (A02) Link: Illustration of sewing method for leather and suede
