How to make six-fiber staining grade 4, washing fastness level 5

How to solve the soaping color fastness of polyester spandex products to GB/T 3921-2008 "Textile fastness test soap fastness" six fiber grade 4, soaking color fastness to GB/T 31127-2014 "textile color The degree of splicing and mutual dyeing fastness is soaked in 4 to 5 grades, and at the same time, the high-elastic and soft fabric style of the polyester-ammonia fabric should be preserved. And as people are increasingly pursuing the individualization of clothing, fashion brand clothing is more and more popular, mixing and color matching, so the color fastness requirements of fabrics are becoming more and more strict, in order to meet the requirements of high-end clothing brands. (Dark and white are connected, and white is not stained), which has become a problem that must be solved by printing and dyeing.

Aiming at the problem of dye fastness encountered in polyester-sweet knitted fabrics, through continuous research and experiment, combined with production practice, dye screening and process optimization, the dyeing fastness of polyester-ammonia fabric was finally solved, and a Complete production process.

1 test part

1.1 Materials and equipment

1.2 Arts Process

Polyester/Ammonia Knitted Fabric→ Trained to oil wash (loose pre-shrinking washing machine, 60～95°C, 7 tanks)→ Pickling (glacial acetic acid 0.5 g/L)→predetermined shape (195～205°C, 15 m/min) →Staining (130 ° C, 50 min) → Acid reduction cleaning (90 ° C, 15 min) → Alkaline reduction washing (90 ° C, 15 min) → Acid neutralization (glacial acetic acid 0.5 g / L) → Finished shape (130 ~ 140 ° C, 15 ~ 30 m / min) → test.

1.3 Test method

1.3.1 Color fastness test for washing: Refer to IS0 105 C03:2010 (60 °C×30 min) “Color fastness test of textiles Part C03: Color fastness to washing”.

1.3.2 Color fastness test for rubbing resistance: Refer to IS0 105 X12: 2001 (E) "Color fastness test of textiles - Part X12: Color fastness to rubbing".

1.3.3 Color fastness test for perspiration resistance: Refer to IS0 105 E04: 2013 (37 °C × 4 h) "Texture fastness test of textiles Part E04: Color fastness to perspiration".

1.3.4 White fastness test: Using a corporate standard, a 4 cm x 10 cm blank polyester fabric and a 4 cm x 10 cm dyed polyester fabric were stitched together and placed in a 5 g/l detergent. Bath ratio 1: 50, 40 ° C x 30 min in a washing machine, observe the stain depth of the blank polyester fabric, and rating.

1.3.5 Floating color fastness test: Using a corporate standard, a 2.5 g polyester-stained dyeing cloth was placed in a bath ratio of 1:50, a concentration of 5 g/L soap powder solution, and stirred at a temperature of 80 ° C for 30 s. Liquid color depth and rating.

2 production process

2.1 pre-processing

2.1.1 Refined degreasing and washing

Principle: Polyester-absorbent fabrics have more spinning, weaving oil, and spandex amino silicone oil, which must be completely removed before dyeing to prevent the formation of lakes from oils and dyes, causing problems such as fabric color and color stains. However, the silicone oil agent is difficult to remove by ordinary scouring conditions, and is a main cause of dyeing such as staining, and it is necessary to use a sizing agent for spandex to sufficiently perform the scouring treatment.

Refining equipment: Select continuous heatable spray-type loose pre-shrinking washing machine (more than six knots). Loose pre-shrinking washing machine can effectively remove oily substances while ensuring no wrinkles on the fabric surface, which is beneficial to the dyed fabric. Flatness.

Refined prescription: high-efficiency scouring agent 20 ~ 30 g / L, soda ash 2g / L

Falling cloth requirements: After the oil is washed, the cloth needs to be set in time; the pH value of the cloth surface is ≤ 7.5; the less efficient and refined emulsifier on the cloth surface, the better, the cleaning is required. In order to ensure that the cloth surface is clean, the pre-shrinking effect is the best, and the cloth surface grease is clean, the speed of the vehicle should be 15-30 m/min.

2.1.2 Predetermined shape

Principle: During the weaving process of polyester-polyester elastic knitted fabric, there is a large residual stress inside the grey fabric, which will deform the fabric structure. If the residual stress in this aspect is not eliminated, it is easy to cause problems such as creases and strips in the dyeing process of the fabric, and at the same time, the width and the weight of the fabric are difficult to control, and the shrinkage is unstable.

The purpose of the predetermined shape is to eliminate the internal stress of the spandex, so that the quality indexes such as the width of the fabric, the mass per unit area and the elasticity of the fabric are stable, so as to prevent the dyeing effect from being affected by the shrinkage during the dyeing process, and the subsequent process does not occur. Great change. The effect of the predetermined shape will directly affect the subsequent processes. If the predetermined shape temperature is too low and the vehicle speed is too fast, the wrinkles on the cloth surface are not easy to be exhausted, and it is easy to form broken folds, easy curling, and unstable width when dyeing. When the predetermined shape temperature is too high, the cloth surface is yellow and hard, strong, and the elasticity is lowered, and even the spandex is broken. Therefore, it is necessary to strictly control the predetermined process conditions, and there must be a certain positive overfeed when the shape is predetermined, and the rolling tension bar is lowered.

Shaped equipment: eight or ten open-width setting machines.

Pre-formed process: over-rolling mill water, rolling car pressure 5 N/cm2, setting machine temperature 195-205 °C, vehicle speed 18-30 m/min, over-feeding 15%.

Falling cloth requirements: flat cloth surface; breathable net bucket car falling cloth (to prevent hot pressing crease); when the heat is dissipated, the air volume should be appropriately increased to reach the cloth surface and the temperature should be lowered in time (the temperature of the cloth surface after the swing is as normal temperature).

2.2 Dyeing

2.2.1 Dye selection

Disperse dyes generally have serious staining of spandex. When screening disperse dyes, it is necessary to consider that it has good coloring performance and good dyeing properties, and the staining on spandex can be easily removed. When dyeing with ordinary disperse dyes, the staining of spandex fibers is more serious and is not easy to remove. Finally, the various fastness indexes of polyester-ammonia fabrics are not up to the customer's demand.

In order to solve the problem of color fastness of polyester-ammonia fabric, Shanghai Anuoqi Group has produced a set of AOCON PUD series high-washing disperse dyes, which are suitable for dyeing high-quality polyester, polyester ammonia, microfiber and blended fabrics with high quality. Good stability and high washing fastness. All disperse dyes have varying degrees of thermal mobility, and the fabric contains some unfixed dye which stains the white fabric during washing. The advantage of PUD series dyes compared to ordinary disperse dyes is that under the hot and humid alkaline conditions, the unfixed dyes on the fabric can be hydrolyzed into colorless groups, and the affinity for white and light-colored fabrics is very low, which greatly improves. The color fastness and white fastness of polyester-knitted fabrics can meet the requirements of polyester-knitted fabrics.

2.2.2 Dyeing equipment

High-temperature and high-pressure overflow jet dyeing machine: The overflow dyeing machine can reduce the tension and tension of the polyester-polyester fabric under high temperature conditions, without causing damage to the elasticity of the polyester-sweet fabric, keeping the fabric slack and avoiding shrinkage.

2.2.3 Dyeing process

Disperse dyeing requires high temperature and high pressure. Polyester fiber has good coloring effect under high temperature conditions, but spandex is not resistant to high temperature. Under high temperature conditions, spandex yarn is prone to brittleness, resulting in strong strength drop, causing problems such as broken wire defects, so in order to balance polyester And spandex fiber, after trial and production research, the dyeing temperature selected 130 ° C can meet the polyester coloring situation, better to avoid damage to spandex. The same dyeing time, dyeing work pH, heating rate and cooling rate will cause damage to the spandex fiber. After experiment and large-scale production test, in order to reduce the damage to spandex, the dyeing time is 40 min, the dyeing pH is 3.8-4.5, and the dyeing temperature is controlled within 10C/min. If the temperature rises too fast, the color flower will be caused by insufficient holding time. The cooling temperature is controlled at 1~1.5 0C/min, because the temperature drop will cause chicken paw prints and even color flowers.

Staining prescription

A: Dye B: Auxiliary

Annocolon PUD-SDK dark black 4.82% high temperature levelling agent DBL l.0%

Anno Kelon PUD-SD block 0.73% same bath degreaser 808 2.0%

Anno Colombo PUD-SD. Ruby 0.26% bath anti-wrinkle agent 2.0%

2.2.4 Restore cleaning

In the dyeing of polyester-sweet knitted fabrics, the staining of spandex by disperse dyes is inevitable. The purpose of reduction cleaning is to remove the floating color on the fabric and the disperse dye adsorbed on the surface of the spandex, and improve the color fastness of the fabric. Reducing and cleaning should take into account the effective removal of the floating color on the fabric and the stain on the spandex. At the same time, the discoloration of the fabric should be considered within the controllable range. After a period of field practice, we adopt the following reduction cleaning method, ie The fastness indicators have reached the requirements of customers, and the discoloration caused by fabric reduction and cleaning is also within the controllable range.

In general, polyester fabric dyed dark color is only cleaned with alkaline reduction, while polyester polyester knitted fabric products. In order to completely remove the floating color on the polyester and the stain on the spandex, after extensive dyeing and testing, it was found that after the dyeing of the polyester-ammonia fabric, an acidic reduction cleaning was added before the alkaline reduction cleaning, which can obviously improve the setting. The color fastness of the finished polyester-knitted finished fabric.

The reason for the analysis may be: adding thiourea dioxide to the acid reduction cleaning immediately after the dyeing of polyester ammonia, not only eliminating the liquid discharge and acid neutralization washing, shortening the process flow, but also effectively removing the floating color and spandex on the polyester. The staining can ensure sufficient reaction of the next alkaline reduction and cleaning, further remove residual floating color and staining, thereby effectively improving the color fastness of the polyester-ammonia fabric.

Reduction method: After dyeing, the polyester-ammonia fabric is subjected to a two-bath two-step combination process for reduction washing, first acid reduction cleaning and then alkaline reduction cleaning.

Acid reduction cleaning process prescription:

Thiourea dioxide 2,000%

Alkaline reduction cleaning process prescription: 36BeNaOH 3.0%, insurance powder 4.0%

2.2.5 Fastness test before exiting the cylinder

Immersion fastness test: 5~6 g/L commercial engraving washing powder heating water is soaked for 3~4 min at 85 °C, and put into the undyed polyester fabric interlining cloth to see how the color of the foot water is. After the test, the water was slightly faded, and the lining of the same fiber with spandex was almost non-stained.

2.3 Finished product shaping

After the dyeing of polyester/polyester fabrics, the finished product should be shaped as soon as possible. It should not be stored for too long after dyeing. It is easy to produce creases and color migration after being put for too long. As with the predetermined shape, the finished product has a low tension in the whole process of shaping, and the fabric to be determined is evenly and loosely distributed in the cloth car. Under the condition that the surface of the polyester-polyester fabric is smooth and wrinkle-free, the setting temperature should not be too high.

Shaped equipment: eight-section open-frame shaping machine.

The shaping process: the temperature is controlled at 110-130 ° C; the vehicle speed is 20-30 m/min; and the hand-sensing aid can be carried out in the feeding tank, and the rolling pressure is 4 N/cm 2 .

3 color fastness

The test results of the color fastness of the processed fabric are shown in Table 1.

Table 1 Test results of standard fastness of swatch after finalizing the finished product

It can be seen from Table 1 that the polyester polyester fabric is pretreated, dyed and reduced by the above-mentioned large production process, and a suitable high-wash PUD series dye is selected for production, which can solve the problem of poor dyeing fastness of polyester and ammonia.

4 Conclusion

(1) Polyester/spandex knitted fabric produced by this process, the washing fastness and 6-fiber staining can reach 4 grades, the rubbing fastness can reach 4 grades, the floating fastness and the white fastness can reach 4-5 grades. The problem of dyeing fastness of polyester spandex elastic knitted fabric is better solved.

(2) The polyester/spandex elastic knitted fabric treated by this process has large elastic elongation, good drape, comfortable hand feeling and high gas permeability, and satisfies the various requirements of high-grade fabrics.

(3) In short, the color fastness problem mainly existing in the dyeing of polyester-knitted fabrics is difficult to solve, but it can be overcome by the improvement of dyes and processes.

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